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Modern bohemia: one artist's journey

Morelia, Michoacan. colonial tourist destination, and sanctuary in the middle of one of the Mexican states affected by drug cartel violence.

I'm staying at Sergio's, an airbnb host. His is a very artsy home, right next to one of the most important music conservatory in Mexico. So this afternoon I was listening to students doing their saxophone, jambe practice. Tonight I had a divine dinner and mezcal for about Cdn $21 tip included. And today, I visited a contemporary art exhibition at the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo; I learned how Morelia became renowned for its candy and chocolate at the Candy Museum, I walked along the aquaduct built in 1785 and consisting of 253 arches, admired the Tarasas fountain; went in the stunning Guadeloupe Sanctuary; walked through the callejon romantico; sat by the beautiful Casa de Cultura; strolled several times around the imposing Baroque Cathedral (built in 1577); Sure I was tired of walking but can you say more inspiring


Yeap! For Morelia, it's business and arts as usual. Canada advises against non-essential travel to the western states of Guerrero (including Acapulco but excluding the cities of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo and Taxco) and Michoacán (excluding the city of Morelia) due to the high levels of violence and organized crime. So here we are in a city that seems untouched by the violence around it. It's calm, safe. People are out shopping, drinking.

The next day I take a tour to see the Monarch butterflies sanctuary. "Is it dangerous, I ask my guide, about the 3-hour drive to get there?" - No, she says, when there is violence, we just don't go anywhere." So after being stuck in traffic for an hour, we make it to the sanctuary Rosario, and after a 45 minute-hike to the top of the mountain, we reached the pines where butterflies mate and find refuge for the winter.

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